If you own your own home, or happen to live in a two or three family home, chances are that the roof over your head is made out of composition, or fiberglass asphalt shingles. Some of the implications of having a composition shingle roof are chipping, cracking, splitting, or tearing of the asphalt shingle due to the aging of the shingle, and exposure to thermal heat of the sun. An older asphalt shingle roof shows signs of wear due to rain washing out the sand granules, which causes roof leaks, and requires roof repairs. These common problems are especially apparent with the thinnest 15 year asphalt shingle, but happen to all asphalt shingle roofing products, and with all roofing manufacturers.
Fun facts about Asphalt Shingle Roofs:
It may come as a surprise to you, but asphalt shingle roofing is not a waterproof product, and it relies on the roof slope to shed the water off from your roof. In many cases asphalt shingle roof failures occur due to shingle exposure to rain, which traps moisture before the installation, and causes premature failures. The tearing of the asphalt shingle often occurs because of a very thin fiberglass mat, an underlay to which asphalt and sand granules are glued. Asphalt typically fails faster in warmer temperatures due to being exposed to the sun, and subjected to temperature changes, which may cause rapid expansion of the roof.
What you should know about Asphalt Shingles Roofing:
What most homeowners do not realize is that today’s asphalt shingle roofing materials have been undergoing a dramatic decline of quality and performance, ever since late 1970’s. Back then, oil embargo and rising costs of asphalt, pushed roofing manufacturers towards shifting production from organic shingles to a thinner and cheaper fiberglass shingle. All of a sudden, asphalt shingles that used to weigh 240 pounds per square of roofing material (100 sq. ft.), were replaced by a “new” 30 year shingles weighing just mere 190 pounds per square. Additionally, to keep up the weight on asphalt shingles, while keeping down the costs, roof manufactures began to use more stone granules, instead of asphalt. The reduction of asphalt content in fiberglass shingles decreased the lifespan of asphalt shingles from commonly expected 20-25 years of service, down to 10-15 years. The promises of a 30 year limited warranty is nothing more than a marketing gimmick used on unsuspecting consumers. The warranty refers to the fact that asphalt shingle is free of manufacturer’s defects, and not to the actual expected service life.
The results of this roofing industry’s consumer deception are premature failures of asphalt shingle roofs, expensive roof repairs, unappealing looking roofs, and decline in property value if the roof is 10 years or older. Today you will be lucky if your 30 year shingles lasts 15 years.
Only steel, aluminum and copper metal roofing can last some 30, 40, 50 years and longer. This is why I recommend metal roofing systems, and cool flat PVC roofs that easily outperform and outlast conventional EPDM rubber and tar roofs by a factor of three. Metal roofing is a far superior and technologically advanced roofing material that is light years ahead of asphalt shingle roofing, in terms of quality, durability and performance.
Should I roof with asphalt shingle
Should you decide to re roof your existing roof with an asphalt shingle roofing due to the lower cost of initial investment, I recommend that you choose Building Products of Canada, residential asphalt shingle roofing. Canada gets a lot of snowfall, so this Canadian roofing manufacturer uses the thickest grade of asphalt shingle roofing for their residential roofing products. The granules, also, seem to last longer on their asphalt shingle roofing products.
Inexpensive Metal Roofing Alternative
Another inexpensive alternative, to asphalt shingle roofing, would be Kynar coated, energy star rated, galvalume corrugated steel metal roofing system featuring “R” panel design with exposed fasteners. Corrugated metal roofing may outlast asphalt considerably, and provide energy efficient roof replacement solution for your home that is also economical, and environmentally safe.
Ever since mid 1800s, corrugated steel metal roofing has been used extensively on agricultural, commercial, and industrial roofs. You might remember the old barns, and farm houses covered with U shaped corrugated steel roofing. Corrugated roofs would often show rust in many spots of the roof. In those early days, corrugated roofing panels were made from bare non-coated steel, which accounted for excessive corrosion factor, which gave corrugated roofs a bad reputation at the time. Nonetheless, steel was a cheap and abundant roofing material, which made it economically feasible to replace the corroded steel panels as and when needed. Such were the expectations for the corrugated steel roofs of the time.
But what about today? First lets look deeper into what modern day corrugated metal roofing represents…
What exactly is Corrugated Metal Roofing all about?
Corrugated roofing is primarily made out of steel in form of U, V, R 5 V crimp shaped roofing panels. Corrugated metal roofing is a system of 32 to 36 inches wide roofing panels held in place by exposed screws / fasteners matched to the color of the panels. Caulk is used at connecting points of overlap in between the panels for water tightness. Corrugated roofing panels can also be made from galvanized, galvalume, stainless steel, and aluminum. Corrugated roofing panel does not have a lot of thickness, which makes it quite affordable, but it does require some maintenance every once in a while depending on the system. More information and system specific details covering features and benefits of corrugated roofing are provided below.
Modern day corrugated metal roofing systems offer corrosion resistance, energy efficiency and provide economical roof solution for commercial, agricultural, industrial, and sometimes residential use. Corrugated roofing panels are usually made from thin gauge steel, usually a 24, or 26 gauge steel, which makes it economical and practical, when it comes to covering large areas of roofing surfaces. Corrugated metal roofs are more practical and longer lasting than asphalt shingle roofs, and they cost much less than standing seam metal roofing.
Corrugated roofing panels can be made from aluminum, galvanized steel (G-60, or G-90 steel),
galvalume coated steel, and stainless steel. When going for a long lasting economical solution, galvalume steel provides an optimal combination of cost effectiveness and material longevity and reliability. When coated with a Kynar coating, corrugated roofing can provide significant energy savings and qualify for LEED building credits, issued by US green building council.
Corrugated Steel R panels – Green Building accredited roofing material
In commercial, agricultural, industrial, and semi residential metal roofing and wall panel material selection process, corrugated roofing panels are a real contender to be a material of choice based on two factors: inexpensive, rather long lasting and energy efficient building envelope roofing and siding alternative. Consider corrugated steel R panel manufactured by Flexospan.
Corrugated steel roofing panel presented above is LEED certified, inexpensive roofing solution for commercial and industrial uses. It is light weight, provides solar reflectivity, and good thermal emmitance, which will help keep the building cool. The downside of using corrugated roofing systems such as 5 v crimp, R panels, and U panels, is that all corrugated roofing systems come with exposed fasteners. Standing seam, on the other hand comes with concealed roof fasteners, which offers higher degree of weather and water tightness, but standing seam a is significantly pricier metal roofing option.
As you can see in a diagram above, corrugated 36 inch R panels are installed using a 4 inch overlap at a 32 inch mark. The exposed fasteners (usually galvanized steel screws color matched to the panel, and combined with special rubber washers for water-tightness are required) are installed 12 inches on center, and then with 16 inches on center, creating a 12 and 16 inches overlap. The use of caulk at the panel connecting points is required as well, which sort of complicates the installation process, and reliance on caulk shows a major design flow of corrugated steel roofing system.
Over the years corrugated roofing systems have benefited from many aesthetic and roof integrity system specific improvements, which now makes it a considerable alternative to conventional asphalt shingle roofs that go into landfills after 15 years of service. Although metal roofing is more expensive than asphalt shingle, corrugated roofing is quite affordable compared to standing seam. There are now, many corrugated roofing systems that can be used for home re-roofing projects. However, keep in mind, that metal roofing systems with exposed fasteners may require re-tightening some every 10 years or so. Also, should you decide to invest in a corrugated roofing system, I recommend that you go with aluminum, or galvalume steel corrugated roof system coated with Kynar 500 coating, not the cheap acrylic paint finish, which will fade quickly.
Exposed fastener metal roofing for residential homes
McElroy Metal provides an affordable metal roofing alternative with exposed fasteners that can be used for residential homes.
The panel presented above, is V – 5 crimp panel, with exposed fasteners. It can actually be used for residential roof projects. V 5 Crimp roofing panel, and its installation (materials and labor) is rather affordable when compared to traditional residential metal roofing systems such as metal shingle, shakes, tiles, and standing seam roofing.
Resources for additional information about corrugated roofs, materials, and pricing:
By virtue of being involved with roofing industry, I am often asked how to stop ice dams from forming on the roof. So, rather than answering individual questions, I decided to write this helpful guide for homeowners who are looking for simple ways to prevent ice dams.
Before we begin, let’s define an ice dam, and examine how an ice dam forms. An ice dam, is literally a wall of ice that forms on the outside edges / eaves of a sloped roof, and in the gutter. The wall of ice prevents the water formed by means of melting snow to properly run down, which causes it to run down the walls of the building damaging ceilings, wetting insulation and causing rotting and damage to walls and paint.
What cause an ice dam, and how does an ice dam form? The mechanism of an ice dam formation is best explained by poor insulation, and ventilation of the building’s attic. When the attic is poorly insulated, the warm air from inside the building escapes through the attic and rises up to the pick of the roof, where it warms up the roofing surface, which melts the snow seating on the roof. The snow begins to melt and melted water runs down the roof slope, underneath the blanket of snow. When it reaches the eave of the roof, it begins to refreeze again forming a wall of ice, which turns into an ice dam.
As you can see in the picture above, the upper portion of the roof is exposed as the snow has melted, and water ran down, and turned into an ice dam, that looks rather extreme! The reason, for the exposed roof shingle, is that warm water that was rising up in the attic, reached the highest point in the attic where it transferred the warmth to asphalt shingle, which in terms has melted the snow on top of the roof. When the melted water reached the edge of the roof, which was not as warm as the top, the water refroze forming icicles and ice dams on the roof. As you can see, the mechanism of ice dam formation is not external, but rather internal, and has to do with inadequate insulation in the attic.
How to prevent ice dams? Clearly an adequate insulation is the key in preventing ice dams from forming in the first place. As long as, we can find a way to keep the warm air inside the house, and stop it from leaking into the attic, we can stop the ice dams from happening. Thus, we have to find a way to properly and fully insulate our attic.
Attic Insulation
For most roofs located in areas with snowfall a minimum of R – 49 insulation value will be required. If your home is 30 years or older, than chances are that it is not properly insulated, and you will improve the energy efficiency and functioning of your home by upgrading your insulation to R -49 value. So if you have an older home, you will first want to find out how much insulation you already have. An easy way to measure your attic floor insulation is by measuring its thickness, which you can measure with a simple ruler, and then multiply the thickness in inches by 3.14. This will give you the approximate R-value. Thus, if you have six inches of Fiberglass blanket insulation, you will get; 6 x 3.14 = 18.84. which means that you need to get an additional 10 inches of attic floor insulation for your home to meet the Department of Energy Requirements.
Refer to to Energy Star’s recommended levels of insulation table to determine the proper R – value for your geographic zone.
A word of caution:
If your home is a victim of ice dam formation, and you consider adding additional insulation to your attic, stop right here, and check for air leaks and drafts in the attic, ceilings and in between the walls before you add more insulation. Properly sealing the leaks in your attic, will play a major role in helping you prevent the ice dams. Take time to identify and locate air leaks in your attic and seal them with caulk, spray foam, or weather stripping. This will make your attic more energy efficient, and you should not add more attic insulation until you have completed this step first.
Attic Ventilation
Once your attic is properly sealed and insulated, it is time to examine attic ventilation. Ideally, you will have sufficient soffit vents, which will allow for air circulation aimed to remove warm air from the attic and bring the cold air from outside. Remember, as long as we can keep our attics, cool, we can prevent warm air from rising up and warming up asphalt shingle, which melts the ice and causes water to run down the slope underneath the snow pack. A home energy contractor can advise on appropriateness of your attic ventilation and recommend adding additional ventilation measures to your home.
When buying insulation materials, be sure to choose energy star rated products, which by the way, qualify for energy efficient improvements and can earn you governmental tax credits. Also, consider insulating walls, and and windows in your home, which will further increase energy efficiency of your home. Doing so, will help keep your home cooler in the summer, warmer in the winter, and prevent the ice dam build up.
As one of the best methods to deal with ice dams problem here in the snow country is to use standing seam metal roofs. This will be especially useful if other methods cannot be used for various reasons or are ineffective. Standing seam roof will let the snow simply slide off the roof, and ice dams won’t be able to form. Even if ice dams do form, for example if there is a snow retention system in place, the single-piece standing seam panels will not be vulnerable to the water back-ups as is the case with asphalt shingles.
Check out how standing seam metal roof is installed:
Please share your successful attempts in preventing ice dams, and ask more questions if you have them.
This is the first tip in the new “Metal roof installation tips” series. It is a follow-up on our 3-piece series on how to install a metal roof. Here I will talk about cutting a standing seam metal roofing panels at an angle or a straight line cut. When installing standing seam metal roofs, you have to do this procedure very often and the fast and clean method of doing so will make your life so much easier. Installing a metal roofing system is not an easy task even for advanced DIY home owners or experienced roofers, and we always recommend that you hire a PRO, but if you plan to try and do it yourself, we are here to help.
You will often hear that you can do it with a Skil-Saw or using a specialized table cutter with adjustable angle. First of all, cutting metal with skil saw is just dangerous and I really do not recommend doing it. As a homeowner you probably do not want to invest 0ver $700 into a stand for just one job. And also, what many people do not realize, cutting standing seam roof panels with a saw, overheats the metal, destroys galvanic layer and leads to rusting, soon after such panels are installed. Therfore, you should not cut metal roofing panels with any type saw.
The best and proven method to do so, remains the tried and true pair of tin snips. Yep… this will give you a clean, usually straight cut, will not destroy the galvanic layer of the panel, and is much less dangerous. By wearing simple safety gear – work gloves, safety goggles (just in case) and being careful, chance of cutting yourself is VERY minimal. The results and speed of this process will amaze you though. I find this to be the most effective method even for a metal roofing contractor. Cutting these panels with just metal snips will give you a lot of small cuts, and you will hate doing it for the rest of your life.
Here is what you will need to cut the standing seam metal roof panel at an angle:
A razor knife with many replacement blades.
A pair of tin snips (left and right work best, though it’s not always convenient to have both) – I use the $17 aviation snips pair from sears… lasts the longest and has 3″ blades for easier and longer cuts.
A pair of horse stands – you can get them for $20-30 at a Home-cheapo or Lawe’s. They will also be helpful at other home improvement projects.
Two 2×6x8 boards and a sheet of plywood 2×8′. You do not need a full width plywood as it will be too wide to fit on horse stands. Place plywood onto the horse stands and the 2×6’s on top of it, somewhere in the middle. You can leave an inch gap between the boards and screw them to the plywood so they do not move.
You may also want to get a 16″ shit metal bender from Grainger, for about $25, if you need to make a straight line bend.
Easiest and fastest way to cut metal roofing panels:
Place your panels on the horse stands with plywood / 2×6 boars already in place. This will give you a stable work surface to cut your metal roofing panels.
I usually mark my panels with a carpenter’s pencil, draw a straight line in the pan, over a painted side. I do this because once you cut a straight line grove in a metal roof panels, you will have bend it, until it brakes, and if you cut the painted side, the locks will not be in a way when you bend the panel.
Cut the locks with snips and using a sharp razor knife, make a “cut” along the line. Be very careful when cutting with a knife, as not to cut yourself (I recommend wearing leather work gloves, as they are very tough and difficult to cut through), and also to keep your cut straight. Than just bend panel back and forth, until is snaps. This is the fastest method for me, and gives the cleanest cut, without cutting your hands. I use this for both straight and angled cuts.
Also I usually place a couple of 2×6s on the horse stands, turn panel so that painted side faces up and 2×6’s are between the locks. This is the easiest way to cut the pan with razor knife.
Razor knife works best on aluminum, but will also cut into steel. Just make sure it’s sharp. If mine gets dull, I brake off a little piece off the tip of a blade and its sharp again an lasts longer.
Making an Eave lock (drip edge hook) on your standing seam panels:
You will want to have this lock on every metal roofing panel, and it usually takes a long time to make. However there is a way (took me a while to figure it out on my own) to make this process fast an easy.
If you need to make a straight angle cut and a bottom lock in the panels, you will want to use the 16″ sheet metal hand bender made by Malco tools and sold at your local Granger or other supply place for HVAC contractors.
First of all, when you measure your panels, you will need to add two extra inches to the total length of the panels. This is for the drip edge overhang and the hook lock (one inch each).
Once you make a straight line cut, measure about one inch deep into the panel and place a mark on both ribs. Cut the single rib lock completely off and one side of the double lock, leaving a lip to bend back, around the rib – look at the picture bellow.
Picture 1 – single lock – cut off.
Picture 2 – double lock with 1/2 cut off and second half left as a bend back lip.
Now that your panel is ready, slide the Malco hand bender onto the panels, and press your palm firmly against the inner edge of the hand bender. This will ensure sharp, and exactly on inch wide hook lock. If you do not press firmly against the hand bender when you make the bend, you will rip the corners of your metal panel and your hook lock will be more like 1 1/4 inches wide which will make it much more difficult to work with.
Once you make the initial bend, keep applying pressure with your palm until you swing the bender all the way around. You want your lock to be almost parallel with with the panel. When you are done pull off the hand bender – be careful as it probably sits tightly on the panel, you may hurt yourself pulling it off. I just give it a good whack with a hammer and it flies off the panel.
Now you have a near perfect drip edge lock which will have to be clamped once you put the panel in place.
This is just one of the unique techniques we use when installing standing seam metal roofs. If you are a DIY type, and want to install the metal roof your self, we hope this was helpful and wish you best of luck. Otherwise we recommend that you hire a professional metal roofing contractor to install your new roof. If
In this guide we used pictures from our standing seam metal roof installations in Plymouth MA (the green roof) and a metal roof in Wayland, MA (grey roof). You can find out more information and read detailed project profiles of flat and metal roofs in Massachusetts, which we installed recently.
you are located anywhere in New England, feel free to fill out our metal roofing estimate form and we will give you a price to install a metal roof on your home. You can also use our metal roofing calculator to calculate the cost of your roof project.
Building in sustainable, energy efficient, resource saving, environmentally safe and responsible way is what green building is all about. Metal Roofing plays a major role, in sustainable design, and it is not only because metal is a sustainable roofing material made from a large percentage of recycled post consumer metal content, but also because metal is a durable and long lasting building material that can also provide significant energy savings to the building envelope, and improve not only the energy efficiency factor of the building, but the surrounding environment as well.
What is it that makes metal roofing sustainable:
Metal Roofing systems are built from metal, which is a lightweight, flexible, strong and reliable building material. It can protect the building from heat gain in by reflecting solar radiant heat back into the atmosphere. Metal is designed to last a long time and requires little to no maintenance. Metal is a widely used building material and metal construction is gaining in popularity because of the economic and environmental benefits metal has to offer.
Economic and Environmental Benefits of metal in Construction:
By keeping the building envelope cool, we can reduce the need for energy consumption required to keep the building cool, when exposed to direct sunlight, especially in the summer. By keeping the building cool, we also attain better affect on the surrounding environment by means of absence of heat island affect, which is a commonly seen phenomenon especially in the big cities where roof of the buildings gain significant heat and release that heat back into the environment making already hot cities seem even hotter and contributing to the load on power generating plants during pick hours of the day when energy consumption necessary to keep the building cool picks up.
Metal Roofing Facts
Long lasting
Environmentally Safe
Made with up to 70% of post consumer content
Can be recycled again and again
Sustainable Building Material
Reduces Heat Gain
Offers reliable protection
Light Weight
Can be integrated with solar roofing panels
Considered to be a green roofing system
Economical over long term cost breakdown
Cool color coated metal roof
Green Roofing component
Metal Roofing is considered to be a green roofing system, although it is not literally green as it is in green roof gardens for residential and certain commercial roofs. The reason why metal roofing is considered green is because it falls into the category of sustainable building materials in green building. Metal Roofs made with standing seam metal roofing can easily be upgraded to solar roofing panel laminates.
Solar Roofing panels attached Standing Seam Metal Roofing
When homeowners decide to re-roof their existing roof with a metal roofing system, they have the option to install a new roof over the existing roof, which will eliminate the need to dump the old asphalt int0 landfills at least in the short term, and will ensure that no extra asphalt will dumped into the landfills from future re-roofing applications. Further, metal roof installed correctly may well outlast the building itself!
Home and Building owners Learn more about Green Building materials, and prices here.
We are offering a one time deal on first-come first-serve basis to install an interlocking shingles metal roof using our steel or aluminum products. We will offer this promotion to first two customers who’s roof meets our requirements for this promotion – one Aluminum metal roof shingles roof and one steel metal shingles roof. If your roof qualifies you will receive a 25% discount of our normal pricing, which you can find using our metal roof price calculator. Your new metal roof can cost you only $750 per square instead of an average $1000+ per square.
Don’t wait – act now, as only two of this promotional roofs (one aluminum shingle roof and one steel shingle roof) will be installed at these prices, after which this deal will be gone forever! Get your discounted metal roof today.
Why we are offering this promotional deal?
You may ask – what’s the catch? To be honest there is no catch, and this is not one of those “slow season promotions”. Your roof will not be a “model home”, although if it is located on a busy road, it will be a big plus. We not necessary going to place a yard sign in front of your house for “x” number of months, or send hordes of potential clients to see your roof.
We need to shoot a video of a complete metal roof installation process and for this video, we need a certain type of roof (more about it in qualification requirements bellow). The roof must presents certain level of difficulty and a minimum number of roof flashing details, such as sky-lights, chimneys, valleys, roof-to-wall flashing, etc. We will need this video soon, and instead of waiting for such roof to come along, we decided to speed up the process, by offering this promotion to first two clients with qualifying roofs.
Roof qualification requirements to get this promotion:
Bellow is a diagram of what your roof should look like to qualify for our promotion. If your roof has different orientation, it is fine as long as it the items listed bellow this diagram.
To qualify, you roof must be located in Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island or southern New Hampshire. Your roof mus have the following:
Valleys
Multiple sky-lights
Masonry chimney
Sidewall – vertical roof-to-wall connection
Preferably hip sections and a dormers
The items above must be present on the roof, in order for our video to show different aspects of metal roofing installation and different flashing details, except for item number 5 – hips and dormers which may not be practical or present on every roof with a lower slope.
Your roof must be walkable (3-5 pitch) for the camera men to be able to safely move around installation crew. If your roof does not have the items, it will not qualify for this promotion.
Roof Tear-off:
For the purposes of this promotion your existing roof will be removed and ALL rotten wood will be repaired / replaced.
It is not always necessary to tear off an existing roof and even more so when the metal roof is installed. Although tearing of old roof is often a preferred method, there are certain aspects of why it may not / should not be done, which I will discuss in details in a separate post on our Flat Roofing blog. In a nut-shell, the tear of does not need to be done if your roof currently has one layer of asphalt shingles. Building codes allow up-to two layers of roofing material on the roof. Since metal roof is so light-weight, its impact will be minimal and there is no real disadvantage of going over existing asphalt shingles.
If you have ceder shingles or slate roof (it is highly unlikely to have slate on low slope roof), it is necessary to remove it in order to install a metal roof. There are three reasons for this: You cannot install anything over a slate roof since it is stone and you simply will not be able to fasten new roof to the deck. Metal roof should not be installed over ceder shingles because it is not a smooth surface and also because cedar shingles are often installed over 1×4″ battens spaced 6 inches from each other. There is no solid nailing substrate for a metal roof and the cedar shingles are usually rotten by the time they have to be replaced.
What is the benefit to you?
You will get a lifetime roof, installed above and beyond the best installation practices in metal roofing. This is not to say that we do not do it on every other roof, but for the purposes of this installation video, each flashing detail will be done thoroughly by the book, which in most cases is not necessary, when there is a simpler detail that works the same way. For example there are at leas three correct ways to do a skylight flashing, so that it would never leak In this case we will use each way to flash a skylight in order to demonstrate how it can be done.
Promotional metal roofing price:
Basically you will get a professionally installed, lifetime metal roof, which is usually priced at $1000-1100 per one roofing square (100 square feet of roof area) for about $750-825 per square – a 25% discount as mentioned above. This price is for a steel interlocking metal shingles. Aluminum will be slightly more, due to material price difference.
Your new metal roof will be installed using pre-made and field formed flashing accessories, and with the following specs:
- Grace Ice & Water shield along the eaves and valleys.
- GAF Deck Armor – a premium breathable synthetic underlayment installed over the rest of the roof.
- New vent pipe boots installed over “stink pipe”.
- New ridge ventilation system installed using our own method – Metal Roof ridge vent installation designed to prevent leaks. Note – you need functioning soffit vents for the ridge vent system to work. If you do not have them we can install new soffit vents for you. If it is not a feasible option a vented drip edge will be installed instead of soffit vents.
Please note – by taking this deal you will agree to forfeit all copyrights to the videos and photographs taking on your roof, and of the roof installation to us.
If you have a qualifying roof any where in MA, CT, RI and southern NH, fill out our online metal roofing estimate form, including details about your roof and don’t forget to mention this promotion – otherwise you will not get the discount (actually you will if we see that your roof qualifies, we will tell you about this promotion even if you do not know about it!
Nowadays, building owners aware of the benefits that green building technology has to offer, turn to metal roofing as a green roofing alternative for their existing roofs. Thus, the predominantly popular asphalt shingle roofing, gets abolished and thrown out of the picture to make room for a much greener alternative in form of metal roofing materials that can offer superior longevity, unprecedented reliability, unique appearance with a hint of beauty and modernity, significantly noticeable energy savings, tax credits for the cost of qualified metal roofing materials used, and last but not least the envy or admiration of your neighbors.
Modern Metal Roofing Alternative
In this post, I am going to present before you the major chunk of metal roofing materials that you may choose for your new roof. I will cover some of the most popular metal roofing systems and materials available to homeowners and building owners of restaurants, office buildings and other types of businesses. When covering the specific metal roofing system, I will cover its aesthetic appeal in appearance, usefulness, reliability, ease of installation, cost e.t.c. When covering the actual metal roofing material or the essence of the metal that it is made out of I will focus on the longevity of that particular metal its usefulness / practicality of use for common roofing applications, and the material system costs and comparison analysis vs. other types of metal roofing systems.
Hypothetical situation – how your roof can really make or break your home:
It would not be too far out there to assume that aside from your wife and kids, your home is your most valuable and precious possession. Hence, it makes a lot of sense that you want your home to perform the best it can. To break it down a little bit, it is highly likely that you want your level of user experience with your home to be five stars, A plus, and simply phenomenal! In order to accomplish this you plan various improvements around the house, and eventually the time comes to consider getting a new roof. Sure your roof is important and not only because it makes up for almost fifty percent of the curb appeal or visual aesthetics of your home, but it is also your first line of defense against the elements such as rain and snow. Your roof can truly make or break your home, and when your roof under performs, the cost can be very significant.
Just imagine, the potential for damage from a roof that may not show any signs of leaks, but suffers from ice dam build up. The water may run down the walls of your home causing significant damage to your ceilings, insulation and wall structure. And, what is the tricky part in all of it? It is that your roof seemed to work fine until it was hit with the major snowstorm, and that was when your roof failed to perform correctly. Sounds all to familiar does not it? Chances are that you know somebody who knows “somebody” that lost a lot of money and sanity from a damage caused by a leaky roof, be it attributed to ice dams, missing shingle, or a failed flashing on your roof.
If you conduct a brief research or a field study of the residential roofing industry, you are likely to discover that asphalt shingle, which is a predominant roofing product in the U.S. is a roofing leak waiting to happen. Talk to your insurance agent and try to get the scoop on asphalt shingle roofing material failures and try to compare it with metal roofing materials in the roof longevity and failure side by side comparison. You will likely discover that metal roofing is a far superior roofing material vs. asphalt shingle. There may be some controversy, though because there are regular roofers who are not specifically trained to install metal roofs, but nonetheless manage to venture out and install metal roofing systems incorrectly, which will account for roof leaks, but due to incorrect installation not the material failure. This is an important point to keep in mind.
In recent years, more and more homeowners are becoming aware of the benefits of metal roofing and consider getting a new metal roof when the need arises. The popularity of modern metal roofing can be attributed to recent governmental Tax Credit incentives made available to homeowners who have invested into Green / Energy efficient building materials for their home improvement project.
People who research metal roofing, know that it is a very long lasting roof, given that it was properly installed. Metal Roofing helps homeowners safe money in a few ways; it eliminates the need for regular roof maintenance, last minute roof repairs. Metal Roofing saves money through reduced energy consumption, which can be especially significant when the roof is coated with cool roof certified metal roofing colors and solar reflective coatings. A beautiful metal roof also enhances the visual appearance of your home and increases the net value of your property.
So how can a homeowner navigate through all the metal roofing systems available on the market today and pick the right system for their home. One of the ways to gather this information is to approach an expert in the field of metal roofing and ask questions about optimal metal roofing system for your home. Chances are that Metal Roofing contractor you approach may only work with one metal roofing manufacturer and be biased, but ask questions and try to get to the point of the issue, which is what is the reason that your metal roofing contractor thinks that this is the best metal roofing system for your home. You are likely to hear about design advantages of a given metal roofing system, and superb warranty details, but make sure that you also consider other factors such as materials that a given metal roofing system is made out of.
Most modern metal roofing systems are available in galvanized, or galvalume steel, which is a great roofing material in terms of its price, relative weight and corrosion resistance properties, but steel is not the best metal roofing material available, because steel is simply impermanent, and will eventually give in to the corrosion. Aluminum, on the other hand is perhaps the ultimate metal roofing material for any roof. It is very light wight and not a subject to the corrosion. Thus, when considering aluminum you are already better of than you would be with steel, but you should also pay attention to system design, weather or not the system is cool roof rated, which can qualify you for Green Tax credits, if it is, in fact, cool roof rated roofing system. Look at the manufacturer warranty details and find out if your metal roofing contractor has installed similar systems in the past and weather or not the homeowners are happy with the system they received. Be sure to find out about labor warranty and get it in writing before making any decisions such as signing the contracts and checks. In other words, be sure to do your homework, and you will be rewarded.
Copper, Tin, and Zinc are among other metal roofing materials to consider for your new roof. When doing your metal roofing materials research you may find that there are such exotic metal roofing systems as titanium with intricate designs and hidden gutters, Those are commercial metal roofing systems and they cost in upward of $20 per square foot for the material alone. Clearly, such a metal roofing system is not a likely candidate to be your metal roofing material of choice. On the other hand, you might be pleasantly surprised that some metal roofing systems are quite affordable and offer great value. Not only that, metal roofing systems such as standing seam roofs, can be outfitted with solar roofing panels and provide your home with Solar derived electricity! How cool is that? Certainly cool from green building perspective.
As far as metal roofing system design is concerned, you are free to choose from metal shingle roofing systems with interlocking design, metal shakes, standing seam, batten seam, simulated Spanish tiles, be it painted roofing panel, or Stone coated / granule coated steel, simulated slate, and metal tiles. Regardless of the metal roofing system you choose be sure to check with metal roofing manufacturers‘ requirements for suitability for your roof, and availability of materials in case the need for roof repair ever arises.
Now that we sort have of covered metal roofing material basics, lets get to a more system specific look at some of the popular metal roofing systems and materials they are available in:
Before I begin covering different metal roofing systems, keep in mind that there is a big important distinction between metal roofing systems, which constitutes roof system design, system components and flashings, appearance, reliability and ease of installation, and the actual metal that the given metal roofing system’s materials are made out of, which essential is responsible for the cost, longevity, and plays an important role in determining the appropriateness for a specific use, which will vary depending on your situation or project requirements.
Standing Seam Metal Roofing:
This type of roof is one of the most widely used types of all metal roofing systems. Standing seam metal roofing panels are available in architectural and commercial system designs and styles. It comes with concealed and exposed fasteners. Concealed fasteners offer higher reliability and lessen the chance of a roof leak. Standing seam roofing offers great advantages over asphalt shingle roofs. For example, standing seam metal roof that was installed correctly and in accordance with manufacturers specifications can last a really long time, providing reliable and maintenance free protection without the need for costly roof repairs. It provides modern look for the building, makes a green statement about the owner and compliments the beauty of the building. In fact, many architects choose metal roofing precisely because of the modern looks and feel of technologically advanced roofing system. The initial higher cost of investment is offset by the visual appearance and boldness of straight lines and use of metal, excellent reliability with proven track record, energy savings, and prevention of ice dam build up issues. Many standing seam metal roofs can also be outfitted with thin film solar metal roofing panels taking your roof’s energy efficiency to yet another level. Standing seam can be used in retrofit and new construction applications. I do not recommend using standing seam metal roof on cut up roof with multiple skylights, dormers, and level changes because, every change in length of the panel to account for changes in roof terrain will amount to a large amount in labor, which will drive up costs through the roof, and can hinder the overall quality because of the likely installer’s error due to heightened complexity. Standing seam is the type of metal roofing system that can be easy to install on straight runs with simple roof structures such as gable roofs. Should your roof be extremely cut up, I would recommend using aluminum shingle roofing, which will work well for a complex roof. The reason for a versatility of aluminum shingle is its small panel size that can be compared to building a highly complex home, roof, and whatnot out of the small Lego pieces in the form of aluminum shingles.
Green Standing Seam Metal Roof
Choice of metal material for standing seam metal roof:
Aluminum, which is a permanent metal that is not subjected to corrosion from being exposed to the elements, can last an infinite amount of time provided that the metal roof was installed correctly with respect to water tightness and roof ventilation. It is very lightweight and flexible metal that can withstand salty environment, and strong wind uplift. Aluminum standing seam would make for a perfect metal roof around coastal areas where less expensive steel could eventually fail to the corrosion due to high concentration of salt in the air. Steel can be a slightly less expensive metal roofing material of choice when the roof in question is not in close proximity to the coastal area. Modern day steel metal roofs are protected / coated with layer of zinc and aluminum, which provides protection from the elements in the environment and helps prevent corrosion. Thus steel is generally safe for use in roofing applications and can last a very long time given that it is also protected with a quality paint finish such as Kynar 500, the industry standard, or better. Copper, the ageless beauty of copper is an expensive investment, but if money is not an issue then the visual appeal and longevity will bring great amounts of satisfaction, longevity, and compliments form your neighbors.
Standing Seam for low Slope Roofs
Typically, a snap lock profile of standing seam is used in residential roofing applications. Snap lock refers to aligning the panels together, with the locking mechanism over the preceding panel and then gently taping over the panels, until it snaps into place. The snap lock based design standing seam can be used on roofs with pitch of 3 to 12 and higher. For lower slope roofs, a mechanically locked standing seam roof system should be used. Refer to the specific Metal Roofing manufacturer’s specs on the use of any given metal roofing system and materials.
Metal Shingle Roofs
Aluminum shingle Metal Roof shown below
Steel Shingle Metal Roof shown below:
Most Metal Shingle roofs require a minimum roof pitch of 4 to 12.They typically feature interlocking design and are fairly easy to install because panels can be easily adjusted for changes in roof patterns.
Custom Metal Roofing Systems
Every once in a while, there is a need for a custom build metal roofing materials that can meet architect’s specifications for wind uplift, environmental factors and style. There are smaller metal roofing manufacturers who are willing to adapt to your needs. Picture below illustrates custom metal roofing system comprised of blue color metal shakes.
Custom Order Metal Roofing Materials
When you finally decide on the type of metal roofing materials you want to use for your projects, be sure to check with manufacturer that your roof is suitable for the metal roofing materials you would like to use. Factors to consider would be pitch, metal type used, and system specific installation requirements.
Unlike the old predecessors, the proverbial steel barns with rusty lines, pigments and dull colors, the metal roofs of today offer a vibrant array of colors, styles and finishes. Not only that, a good chunk of modern metal roofs are coated with Kynar 500 or better coating that comes with 30 year paint finish warranty. What that means that your metal roof is not only protected by the process of galvanization used with steel roofing systems, but the paint that further enhances the protection of galvanized steel.
Rusty metal Roof
Presented below are Aluminum Shingle Metal Roofing colors for the residential metal roofing system we install in Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut. This system is comprised of Metal Shingle, that interlocks on all four sides resulting in a fully interlocking metal roofing system that meets Miami Dade County wind uplift requirements, reflects solar radiant heat, sheds snow and ice and helps prevent ice dams. Please note, that not all available colors are shown below. What you see is only a sampling colors for aluminum roofing system that can be installed over existing asphalt shingle.
To demonstrate this system in Action I am providing a link to a Metal Roofing Installation Video on YouTube. The roof you will see below was installed in Revere, MA and the owners are really happy with it. Because of the low slope of the roof we have implemented some custom metal roofing flashing. You will notice that the roof color is not the one shown above. The color of the roof in a video is light brown / or coffee color.
*Available with 20-year Non-Prorated Limited Warranty
Drexmet Colors meet the Eligible Building Envelope Component Criteria for tax credits.
Drexel Cool Metal Roof Systems have the lowest life cycle cost and environmental impact as compared to other roofing products. Drexel Metal Roof Systems also offer:
Low Eco-impact relative to other steep slope roofing materials
Energy Star listed roof systems which help reduce the transfer of heat energy into your dwelling making an even bigger impact by reducing net energy consumption
Solar Energy Roof integration including systems design including tax incentives and ROI calculations as well as performance monitoring
Rain Harvesting Systems for supplementing water supply
Drexel Metal Roof Systems contribute to multiple LEED Credits including:
As a metal roofing contractor, I get a lot of questions about different metal roofing systems and whether or not they would work in certain situations, of which the most mentioned problem is preventing Ice Dams. Also, here in southern New England (Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut) we have a very unique situation with metal roofs. On one side, metal roofing is not very wide spread here and therefore most people are unaware of these excellent and permanent roofs. However, because of our close proximity to NH, ME and VT, many homeowners who consider a longer lasting roof than asphalt shingles, usually mention a metal roof that they’ve seen “driving through NH”.
Because of such situation, most people that are aware of metal roofing, think that New Hampshire style vertical panels (standing seam roofing) are the only metal roofs in existence, or are the best because that is what they’ve seen.
Despite popular belief about standing seam being “the only” or “the best” metal roofing system, this is just not true. I will mention that though that standing seam metal roofs are very good, and time proven systems, but they have a few negative aspects to them, which make them “not the best” for me personally. You can read my complete overview of why standing seam is an inferior metal roofing system at the end of this article.
Comparing different metal roofing systems:
Getting back to people’s general knowledge about metal roofing – there are many other metal roof systems out there, which in some or most aspects are just a good or better than standing seam roofs. In this article I will try to introduce you to other metal roofing systems, and compare the on the basis of product quality, system design, ease of installation, and price. Just to let you know, ease of installation and price are very inter-dependent, thus the more difficult it is to install a roofing system, the more you will have to pay for it.
So without further adieu, the me introduce our main contender (first one is standing seam, against which I will compare other metal roofs) -Interlocking Shingles. I will omit talking about other systems such as Metal Shakes because they are very similar to metal shingles, and stone coated steel roofs, because besides good looks, while the do work – they are pretty horribly designed (my personal opinion as an installer).
Steel and aluminum interlocking shingles:
Interlocking metal shingle are just that – they have locks or hooks on all four sides. These locks hold the shingles together, preventing water and ice form penetrating the roof, while clips and nails hold the roof down to the deck. Interlocking metal shingle roof is the most versatile metal roof that exists. It can adjust to any normal roof penetration. It is easily installed on hips, valleys, side and end walls. Flashing a skylight or a chimney with metal shingles system is a breeze, if not pleasure (Read the last section of this article, about flashing skylights with standing seam roof panels).
Metal shingle systems that I know of, are VERY well designed. Very durable 3/4″ locks on all sides, easy install sidewall and gable flashing, T-valleys, all with built-in water run-off channels make installation of metal shingle roofs fast, and overall roof quality – outstanding.
Metal shingles installation:
The pros & cons of Standing Seam roofing:
First, the good: In many situations standing seam will be an excellent system that will last for decades, protecting your home or business from rain, snow, high winds, ice dams, etc. If your roof is simple gable, you can also expect a relatively reasonable price for your roof. If you have a walkable roof, the price may decrease a bit more.
The bad: If your roof gets complicated, you can expect to pay a lot for a standing seam roof, and even more for very steep roofs. The main reason for this is the way that a standing seam roof is designed and installed. Because of the vertical panel design, there is no way to put up any kind of roof brackets, so moving on such roof becomes extremely difficult and dangerous. While on a steep gable roof an installer can use a special hook ladder, thrown over the ridge, and move it left or right and he needs, working in valleys or even worse, on hip roofs, borders impossible, without a boom lift, except for roofs with low slope (3-4 in 12).
Another major limitation of standing seam roofing is the inherited design flaws. The ribs on the panels make it a very difficult system to install, when it comes to any kind of flashing detail. For example it it is a wall flashing, the panel must be cut, making sure the cut is straight. Then a lip has to be bent up, and only then the panel can be attached to the roof. But this is not all. Now it is time for Z-bar to be installed and ofter than a side-wall or head-wall flashing. Mind you all of this must be done while installer is on the roof, with all kinds of tools, and trying not to fall off the roof.
While all of the above is doable, and is done on regular basis, there is on type of flashing detail for which there isn’t a single good way to do it. I’m talking about chimneys and sky-lights. There are different ways to flash them, but all are reliant on caulking to make the watertight. The problem in in the back pan of every sky-light of chimney flashing (unless chimney has a cricket) and connection between back-pan and z-bar/sidewall flashing on the sides of the sky-light or a chimney.
I’ve included a link to one of the “best” ways to install such flashing detail, which for one, is very complicated, and I still would not use it. The problem is that there is no better way. Please review the sky-light / chimney flashing detail produced by ATAS. You may also read this thread on ContractorTalk regarding skylights in standing seam: http://www.contractortalk.com/f15/skylight-metal-roofing-60324/
So in a nutshell, standing seam is great when you have an easy roof. As soon as your roof gets complicated, you want to stay away from standing seam. If you still choose to use it, expect of of the following: A contractor you hire (I just don’t see a home owner installing a complicated standing seam roof) will charge a lot for a good installation. If you get a “deal”, expect a frustrated contractor cutting every possible corner. If you hire an eager contractor, chances are it the their first complicated standing seam metal roof and you will get mediocre quality at best, if the contractor actually manages to finish the roof. Some just stop in the middle of installation and never come back to it, leaving you with a roof half-done.
Corrugated steel vs. standing seam roofing:
Many people confuse standing seam with corrugated steel roof. Former one is an all concealed fasteners system, while the latter is an all exposed fasteners system. Also, corrugated steel roofs are made of cheap thin gauge (29 GA usually) steel painted with acrylic paint instead of 24 or 26 GA Galvalume or G-90 galvanized steel painted with Kynar 500 baked on coating consisting of 7 total layers of primer and paint. Kynar is actually a de-facto industry standard, when it comes to metal roof paints. Corrugated roofs are those that you can often see with rust spots all over and have a short life expectancy with high potential for leaks
Conclusion
Basically, unless you are absolutely in love with the looks of standing seam roofs, I strongly recommend getting an interlocking shingles metal roof – be it steel or aluminum. Price wise, you will get same (if not better) performance at about 40% less money. You will also have a happy contractor, which is important for you in the first place, especially if your roof is more or less complicated. You contractor won’t hate life while working on your roof and you will get a better installation quality (which is the most important part). In one sentence – you get a better product for less money – can’t beat that!
Looking around at the different houses on the street and not finding a unique, modern look that satisfies your desire for articulated lines yet is minimalistic enough not be in everyone’s eyes? Perhaps you are looking for Aluminum Standing Seam. Recently we have installed such system and this article will try to show how such a system is installed, its properties and a bit of history.
As you may know aluminum siding has been very popular about 60 years ago; however, with changing tides in the global commodity market and innovative use of cheaper PVC siding, lead to a reduction in the use of aluminum as siding. Nevertheless, it has reemerged as an element in modern and contemporary design and now provides and alternative to the standard options when desiring some thing more.
Modern Standing Seam Panel Features + tips
Length between the seams- should be adjusted so that most penetrations would fall between the seams.
Height of seam- purely aesthetic but should be at least 1” tall.
Wall anchoring- two options nail strip or clips (longer use clips short use nail strip).
Lock type- snap lock or lock in from side, contractor preference.
Paint- KYNAR 500® PVDF or HYLAR 5000® PVDF high quality raisin paint.
Gage- Thickness standard for aluminum siding and roofing is 0.032
Installing Standing Seam Siding
Project: Siding on the back portion of a town house with adjacent units on both sides.
Location: Boston, MA
Substrate: wood siding on top of boards.
Color: Silversmith and mate black window trim.
Type of panel: Nail-strip snap-lock.
Initial Inspection and material order preparation
First thing one should do when installing metal siding is to see if the deck, in our case wood planks, would hold the screws. Make sure that there is no rot or cracked boards (we were lucky as some of the siding was already removed). Second measure every distance from sides to protruding objects such as windows, pipes and outlets- try to record how big a penetration would be – to properly select the width of the panels. This step is crucial to having a clean look, flashing around objects is hard enough flashing with a seam in the middle is twice as hard.
Once all of the above is done, I used Sketchup by Google, draw a diagram and come up with a width that will make the least amount of cuts necessary to go around windows and penetrations. After the diagram is adjusted for accuracy the order is sent to the manufacturer.
Removing old siding, fixing deck and installing underlayment
The main problem here is not to damage the adjacent buildings and the newly installed door. As this was wood siding and the work area was very small we used crow bars which both less destructive and tests the strength of the boards underneath. As expected some of the boards were rotten and on top of that the blown in insulation fell out once we removed the rotten boards. After a quick run to Home Depot we got some 3/4” plywood and pink insulation, and fixed the troubled areas. When installing standing seam for either roofing or siding applications the deck should be as straight as possible and should not have any nails sticking out, if they do sooner or later the aluminum will take the form of anything that’s underneath it.
As with traditional siding choice the wood deck should be covered in undelayment/vapor barrier. Our choice is a synthetic breathable undelayment by GAF called Deck Armor, it allows moisture to escape but doesn’t allow water to penetrate thus removing any excess moisture coming from inside the house, preserving the wood for many years to come, and it also acts as a second water barrier. This treatment makes the side water tight, should be installed from bottom to top, and could be left exposed for months if the project could not be continued.
Flashing around windows and sides
Once all you see is underlayment its time to install trim and wrap windows in aluminum. There are three basic elements of flashing trim in this project.
J-Channel – a piece of metal that looks like the letter “J” in profile. This is installed on all the sides and where the top of the panel will sit.
Sill trim – a piece of metal that looks like the letter “L” with a lip facing down at an angle from the side that will be sitting on top and will hold the bottom of the panels.
Window Trim – this is made up of 4 parts and is held by small trim nails. (see picture for details)
When starting try to square the side to make sure that the panels will be straight. Start by installing sill trim on the bottom where the panels will start, then install J-channel on sides and trim windows. After that install J-channel on the sides and bottom of windows and sill trim on top.
Installing standing seam panels
The first panel is the most important one it has to be straight and square, screw in screws every 8 inches . When encountering penetrations measure the location and cut out an appropriate hole on the panel if its a window leave 1/8” between the panel and trim. Where panel meets J-channel the metal will be lose as the lock is cut. Insert a piece of aluminum to hold it steady or bend a lip in the panel where the lock was cut (about ¾ of width inside the J-channel). To avoid dents when locking the seams together use a rubber mallet or hands. To fill the gaps with the adjacent siding use commercial grade caulking.
And there you have it, installed Standing Seam panels, in my opinion it looks stunning compared to the vinyl or wood siding. Now all the owner has to do is power wash it every few years and thanks to the advanced paint coating and the properties of aluminum this will stand unchanged for the next 30-50 years.
Many homeowners struggle with flat roof leaks on their low slope / flat roofs that are supposed to be protecting their home, but instead fail miserably and cause much aggravation to the homeowner and water damage to the house. If you are reading this flat roof repair guide, then chances are that you are one of the many homeowners suffering from flat roof leaks and you want to find a way to repair your roof. In this guide, I am going to show you how to repair EPDM rubber roof yourself.
Roofing tools and materials you will need to buy:
In order to do proper flat roof repair, you will need to do some shopping for the right roofing tools first.
You will need to locate roofing supply warehouse near you. You can grab your local yellow pages and look for Beacon Supply, Bradco, Alside, or Harvey’s Industries. When you do find RSW near you, go there and buy the following roofing materials:
Roofing Seams Probing tool
Roofing Hand Roller tool
Roofing Membrane Cleaner
EPDM rubber glue
EPDM peel and stick roofing tape
Appropriate Ladder with ladder stabilizer
- Cheaper to buy at home depot
Paint brush used to spread the glue
Bucket of warm water and clean towels
Now that you have completed your shopping for roofing supplies it is time to get to work!
Locate and mark roof leaks
Set up your ladder securely and climb up on the roof. Get all the tools and materials you will need on the roof as well. Most of the time EPDM rubber roof leaks occur because the seams subjected to element such as water and ice, begin to come apart causing a roof leak. Use seam probing tool to identify places where roofing seams have come apart. Mark all the bad seams you find.
Fixing bad roofing seams
Use warm water and towels to clean up the area where roofing seams came apart. Then separate the seams and pull top seam away from the bottom so that you can further separate the seams by a foot in each direction.
Now use roofing cleaner to remove the old glue from inside the seams, Be sure to thoroughly clean up both top and bottom seams. Let it dry so you can apply the rubber roofing glue to repair the seams.
Use paint brush to spread the rubber roofing adhesive to both top and bottom seams. Be sure to go at least six inches deep and get the adhesive deep on the inside of the edges of the seams. Now use the roofing roller to connect the seams nicely. At this point, your seams should be properly glued together and you should let it dry for twenty four hours before testing the seams with seam probing tool. If you find that some seams are not glued to perfection, then you will have to repeat the steps until you get tightly joined and water tight rubber roof seams.
If you do not want to mess around with the glue and wait 24 hours for it to dry, you can use the pill and stick rubber roofing tape that you would place in between the roofing seams to adhere top and bottom seams together. You could then use another 9 inch wide one sided tape to go over the seams to provide extra layer of protection.
Warning
Be sure to properly secure your ladder and safety yourself in, when working on the roof. Get a friend to help you out and be there for you in case you need to call for help.
In this part I will go over the actual installation of standing seam metal roof panels, and in the last part of the metal roofing installation series, I will show you how to install an aluminum and steel metal shingles that also last a lifetime, but are not as widely used, because they require special installation techniques that are different from the standing seam installation.
In this guide, we will not cover several topics of metal roofing installation such as sky-lights on a standing seam roof, as it is a much more advanced topic and requires certain level of experience from the installer in order to be done correctly. In fact, any advanced installation techniques and flashing details involved in metal roof installation will later be described in great detail on our online Metal Roofing Store where you will be able to purchase aluminum and steel roof shingles, as well as learn how to install them on your home, all while saving $1000’s.
Introduction to DIY Metal Roofing Installation:
What we will cover in this article, will be related to the basics of metal roofing installation. As our perspective model, we will assume that the roof we will be installed on a simple gable roof of a ranch style home. Our hypothetical home has one stack pipe and no chimney or skylights. Chimney and skylight flashing will be covered in later post. For ventilation we will be using gable vents…
Well, lets start installing our metal roof!
Step one – installing drip edge.
Installation of drip edge is usually rather simple. but for a novice roofer it can be a challenge. I’ll take a step back to the first part of this guide – when prepping your deck, make sure that old drip edge is completely removed and all rotten wood (boards or plywood sheeting) is replaced.
There are several opinions as to whether install drip edge under or over the underlayment. In theory if you install drip edge over the roofing underlayment, water may get under it. In reality, metal drip edge gets installed so tightly, that water just rolls over it. Therefore I always install underlayment first, and then go over with the drip edge.
Advantages of installing drip edge AFTER underlayment, are as follows: You do not waste precious time during installation of the drip edge; when and if your roof is open and it rains, you may not have enough time to cover it. Second reason is the safety. When I install underlayment, first I can trim the edges as I please, in case that a hang off of the roof is too lengthy. If your drip edge is already in place, and underlayment hangs off of it, trimming it may be rather dangerous, while sitting on the edge of the roof. Lastly – it really does not make much difference in terms of performance. The metal roof will keep the water out, and the only water on the underlayment will be condensation. If rain water gets onto underlayment, than you have bigger problems to worry about.
Install your drip edge using either screws or nails about 8-12″ On Center (O.C.) in a staggered pattern for optimal rigidity. Overlap individual sections by at least 2″ and don’t forget to open up the lip of the overlapping section for better fit. Install drip edge along all eaves (horizontal ends of the roof).
If you have a hip roof, trip your drip edge so it overlaps the batting section.
Note: Usually you will receive a drip edge with 1 1/8″ face. You can optionally order 2 1/8″ face or any other size as well as vented drip edge, in case you want to do the soffit / ridge ventilation and you don’t have the soffits.
Depending on your supplier, you can order pretty much any type of trim detail custom made to your specifications. Unless you specify, you will usually get the standard trip that your supplier has. I once got a 2″ face drip edge while I was exception 1″ and 2 inches did not work, so I had to exchange them. Think about such things ahead of time and you won’t be wasting time and money – always specify what you want to get. Most manufacturers / suppliers will accept your drawings, even hand-drawn.
Step two – Gable / Rake trim:
In standing seam metal roofing there are at leas two ways to trim the gables of your roof with many variations. Two basic once include either using a special gable trim or a regular drip edge. I prefer using special trim as it is easier and safer to install.
Installing your gable trim may have to be done either in the beginning or in the end of the roof installations. This will depend on how you plan to layout your roofing panels If you start with a full or partial panel at the gable, than you can put up the gable trim as soon as your first (and last) panel is installed. You will need to bend up 1-1 1/4″ lip on the outside edge of your panel. This will serve as a hook for the gable trim. Optionally you can cut out the outside part of the double lock on the panel itself, if you are using a full panel. If you will be bending the lip, you can ether use the hand seamer / folder or a special roller (which costs $500 and you may not want it, if you are only doing one roof). If you use the hand seamer / folder, your bend will not be straight, but do not worry about it as the gable trim will hide the imperfections. This will be a very tedious process, especially on a longer panel.
If this will be your last panel, measure the distance between the edge of the roof and the edge of last full panel – this will be the pan width of your last panel. Add at leas an inch to this width for your fake lock. Make sure that you measure both top and bottom of the panel as this width tends to be slightly off due to framing being out of square and panel creeping. You don’t want your panel to bump out by an inch or two.
Once you prepared your first and / or last panel, and created the fake lock to hook your gable trim to, line the panel up so it is flash with the rake board. If this is your last panel, and you measured everything right, the panel will be flash with the rake board or you may have it bumping in or out by 1/8 – 1/4″ – this is normal, and will not be noticeable.
Hook your gable trim into the fake lock, pull it down with your fingers and drive in color matching hex screws with rubber gaskets, approximately 12″ oc. In some situations, for aesthetic reasons, I measured 2″ from each end and measured the remaining distance for equal spacing of screws (usually came out about 10″ oc).
In some situations you will be required or may choose to use a drip edge as gable trim. In that case, instead of bending up 1 inch fake lock, bend down about 7/8″ lock to a 90 degree angle. Hook that side lock to the drip edge and fold in down with your fingers. Use hand seamer to tightly crimp the lock.
All other trim, besides the drip edge and on some occasions gable trim, will be installed as you get to it with your panels.
Step 3 – Installing your first panel, and the field panels.
Whether you are using gable trim or drip edge for your rakes, the first panel will be the most important, because it will determine if your roof is squared, if any penetrations line up in the center of the pan or on the rib / lock. You definitely want to avoid having any penetrations lining up with the lock for it will be quiet problematic for a first-time metal roof installer to flash it properly. This should be solved ahead of time by making the first panel the needed width so you end up with all penetrations through the center of the panel.
Assuming your have the correct width of the firs panel and all drip edge installed, you will have to create the hook-lock at the bottom of each panel. This hook / lock should be 7/8 of an inch wide and folded down (see photo below). Also notice the little “ear” sticking off the double lock. You will need to make this to wrap it around and crimp, once the panel is installed.
Hook the first panel into the drip edge, align it flush with the rake board and install 1 screw through the pan, all the way at the top of the panel (about 1 inch from the upper edge of the panel). This screw will hot it in place while you are installing clips.
Space your clips 10-12″ OC, and using special flat-head screws, attach the panel to the roof deck. To avoid dents in the panel, install screws into outside hole of the clips. If you are located in high wind area you may want to put two screws into each clip, but I would actually increase the number of clips to 6-8″ OC instead of using two screws. Never put two screws if you have boards instead of plywood. Two crews will split the board and panel attachment will not be secure.
Once the firs panel is installed, snap on the next panel. I found the easiest way to do this is to hooks the loose panel into the drip edge and insert the tip of single snap lock into the double snap lock, Push the panel all the way up and only then start putting the lock together. See video bellow:
Use a rubber mallet or the rubber handle of your hammer to snap the seams of the roof panels. Using your palms will begin to hurt after just a couple of panels. Make sure that whatever you use is soft as to not dent the metal panels.
Repeat the process until all panels are installed. Measure and install your last panel as described above. Repeat the process on the other side of the house.
Step 3.1 – flashing a vent (stink) pipe.
If you have a vent pipe (most likely you do), you should have ordered appropriate size pipe boot with metal/rubber flexible adjustable bottom, designed for corrugated steel and standing seam roofs. I hope you aligned your panels so that the stink pipe lands between the ribs. as you approach the stink pipe with last full panel that does not require cutting, finish installing that panels and measure distance from the bottom to the center of the pipe and from the side where last panel is. Locate the spot where you will be cutting a hole for the pipe in on the next panels and cut the hole which would be 1/2 – 3/4″ wider than the pipe.
As you can see in the picture above, we actually had the rib sitting 1″ away from the pipe. We could not avoid this and had to deal with it, but for you, I strongly recommend to spend 5 extra minutes measuring and not doing it the hard way.
Once you cut your hole in the panel, put it up, install the clips and now you are ready to install pipe flashing. Put your pipe flashing on, align it with the panel, use pencil to mark the location of the flashing and pull it off. Apply a thick bead of Solar Seal 900 of equal exterior grade sealant / caukilg withing the perimeter of the flashing, set the flashing back in place so that its base is completer sealed by caulking. Fasten the flashing down with the hex head rubber gasket screws, spacing them about 1.5-2″ apart.
Once again, to avoid the situations where roof penetration lands in the center of the lock, measure carefully beforehand.
Step 4 -Installing z-bars and ridge cap.
If you are using ridge/soffit vent systems, make sure you are not installing it on a low slope roof, as water may get inside through the perforated z-closure.
Cut your z-bare to the width of one panel. Make sure it fits tightly, but not too tight as to scratch the locks of the panel. Usually go about a 1/4 less than nominal width of the panel. This gives you enough room for a snap lock of the next panel to fit in an to have minimum gaps between edges of.
Cut a small piece of ridge cap (about 2″ wide), align in so that it is in the center of the ridge, laying perpendicular with the locks. Mark the outer edges on the top of each rib. You will align your z-bars and the ridge cap to this marks.
Use the first piece as a template and cut enough z-bars to accommodate every panel on your roof (both sides). Using double-sided peel-n-stick foam or some type of exterior grade caulking such as butyl, urethane, or similar, sealant, caulk the connection area between the panel and the z-bar. Attach z-bar wit 3 screws, and caulk the side gaps that wind driven water could not get in. As for the caulking of choice we always use clear (or color matching) Solar Seal 900. It works awesom!
Once all your z-bars are up and sealed, take a section of the ridge cap, cut a 2-inch line down the center bend, on on end of the cap. At the same end, cut off 2 inches of lock and bend down the two flaps. this will be your end piece. Align the flaps you’ve just created with the gable trim and hook in one side of the ridge cap into the z-bar. If your z-bar is space too widely or narrowly, you can bend it in or out so that it fits your ridge cap. Hook the second (unclosed) lock into the opposite z-bars all along the length of the cap. Once it is completely clipped in, use your hands you close the opened lock (lip) on one side of the cap and than use hand seamer, crimp both sides of the cap.
Take the next section of the ridge cap, and cut of about 3″ of locks at one end of the cap. Do not cut along the center. Apply two lines of caulking where the connection between two pieces will be made ad install second piece the same way you did with the first, using the end where you cut off 3 inches of lock, to overlap the 1st piece. Do not use any screws. The connection should be watertight and will not leak.
Once all your ridge cap is in place, your roof is pretty much complete. If you have the stack or bathroom vent pipes, I will show you how to flash it right bellow. In the mean time, if you live in the snow country, you may want to have snow guards installed. Visit Berger snow guards, to find the style you like and where to buy.
Conclusion:
Hope you enjoyed reading this post and found the information helpful. As a word of precaution remember to always safety in and never work alone. Check back soon for the last part of the series on the Installation of Metal Shingles Roofing system.
Residential Roofing Materials Guide for Homeowners
Modern roofing industry offers an abundant variety of roofing materials that homeowners can pick for their new roof, or a re-roofing project. Roofing materials differ in visual appearance, cost, durability, maintenance requirements and ease of installation. Anther variable – the roof slope limits the choice of materials suitable for a particular roof.
Gentle and Steep Slopes:
The more level the pitch of the roof, the slower the runoff of water; and a slow runoff calls for an especially waterproof covering. A flat roof surface can be covered with flat roofing membranes such as TPO, EPDM rubber, modified bitumen roofing, built up roof, or a cool flat roofing membrane by IB Roofs. Because of the special skills and tools involved, these materials are best installed by professional roofing contractors; however, they can sometimes be repaired fairly easily. A gentle roof slope can in theory be covered with roll roofing; however despite its inexpensive cost, rolled roofing will only last 5-7 years. Therefore, if you want to avoid having to replace your roof in five years, it makes sense to invest into more durable roofing system such as that offered by IB roofs.
If the roof rises more than 3 inches per foot, then it is considered to be steep, and is suited for a wider range of roofing materials such as asphalt shingles, slate, tile, woof shingles and shakes, and metal roofing systems.
Estimating and Ordering:
Most roofing materials are sold in units called squares, each capable of covering 100 square feet of roofing surface. (The only exception is rolled roofing, and flat roofing membranes that come in rolls of varying lengths, widths and weights). In order to estimate the amount of material needed, determine the area of the roof surface, add 10 percent to allow for double layers of covering along ridges, eaves, and hips, and round the total up to the next highest square. (the next 100 square feet)
Roofing Materials:
Asphalt Shingle – Inexpensive – lasts – 15 -20 years -Minimum Slope 4 in 12. Asphalt shingle roofing is easy to install. It is available in wide variety of weights, styles, and colors; requires little maintenance and is easy to repair. Darker asphalt shingle may not last as long as lighter colored shingles. Goes into landfill at the end of its service life.
Roll roofing - Inexpensive – lasts – 5 – 7 years -Minimum Slope 1 in 12. Rolled roofing is easy to install and repair. Limitations: Poor fire resistance for some types, gets hot in the summer and transfers a lot of thermal solar heat inside the building, requires frequent replacements.
Built-up or Modified Bitumen – Moderate in price – lasts 10-20 years – minimum slope 1/4 in 12. Modified Bitumen is more waterproof than rolled roofing, but it has poor fire resistance for some types; must be installed professionally; leaks are difficult to locate.
EPDM Rubber – Moderate in price – lasts 15-20 years – minimum slope 1/4 in 12. Must be installed professionally. Leaks usually occur in the seams; can be easily repaired.
IB Roof (Modern PVC membrane) – Lasts 30-50 years – No minimum Slope – can withstand ponding water and ice, can further be outfitted with solar roofing panels. Considered to be a cool roof and accredited by green building council, IB flat roofing membrane reflects much of solar radiant heat, which helps keep building cooler and saves money on energy costs over the summer months. Can be properly recycled at the end of its service life.
Wood Shingles and Shakes – Moderate to expensive – lasts 15-30 years – minimum slope 3 in 12 for shingles; 4 in 12 for shakes. Offers attractive rustic appearance and acts as natural insulator. Limitations: Highly flammable unless specially treated; shingles must be laid over open planks or spaced battens.
Slate – Expensive -lasts 50-100 years – minimum slope 4 in 12. Offers attractive traditional appearance; fire resistant. Limitations: Heavy; brittle; requires sturdy roof support; tricky installation that requires special tools; needs regular replacement of damaged pieces; difficult to repair.
Tile – Moderate (concrete) to expensive (clay) – lasts 50-100 years – minimum slope 4-12. Offers attractive and unique appearance; fire resistant. Heavy; brittle;; requires sturdy roof support; time consuming installation; availability of replacement pieces unreliable; difficult to repair.
Metal Roofing – moderate on higher side for galvanized steel and aluminum shingles; expensive for copper lasts 30 – 100 years depending on the system; fire resistant; Offers beautiful modern appearance and a great variety of styles, and finishes. Metal shingle roofing features 4 way interlocking design, which provides reliable wind uplift protection, as each shingle is interlocked with metal shingles next to it. Roof you see below is made with G-90 steel coated with Kynar 500 cool roof rated solar reflective coating. This roof was installed in Rhode Island.
Below you can see standing seam roof, made from aluminum sheet metal roofing panels. This this roof was installed near Boston, Massachusetts. You can also see that standing seam roof has a rail snow guard system, to stop the snow from sliding down the roof. Standing seam roof is coated with special coating that sheds snow and ice, which is especially useful in northern Massachusetts, and New Hampshire where there is significant accumulation of snow. Standing seam roof can last a lift time of the building and help prevent ice dams on your roof.
While standing seam is a premium roof that comes with a price tag, there is a less expensive alternative that has been in use for many years on agricultural and industrial buildings, barns and farm houses. Corrugated metal roofing material is usually made out of thin gauge steel in comes in U shaped form. Although, it was primarily an agricultural type of roofing material, modern day corrugated steel metal roofing can be used to roof over a residential house. For instance, a galvalume steel or aluminum v 5 crimp panel coated with kynar paint finish could be used in residential roofing.
color coated corrugated steel roofing panel
Comparing Roofing Materials
In this post, “Cost” refers to the relative cost of roofing materials alone, does not include the cost of labor. In most cases, the cost of professional installation is higher for roofing materials like slate, tile, wood shingles, cedar shakes, and metal roofing than it is for asphalt shingles, or rolled roofing.
The minimum roof slope is the roofing pitch at which a specific material begins to provide adequate protection against water. All the materials listed can be applied to roofing surfaces steeper than the minimum, but as slopes increase such considerations as appearance durability become more important.
“Durability” provides a rough measure of the length of time a roof will last with proper maintenance in temperate climate.
Let me guess, you have a wonderful home, but your roof is starting to show some signs of age with perhaps a few roof leaks starting to develop here in there. Lets face it, your roof is your first and only line of defense from the rain and snow, and natures’ elements. Obviously your roof plays a very important role protecting your home and you expect it to provide that same reliable protection for years to come. But, after some 12 to 17 years your aging roof has developed a few cracks in the asphalt shingle and you begin to wonder if it is time to get a new roof so that your home would be safe and protected by a great looking roof.
Very plausible scenario indeed, and now that you are faced with dilemma of getting a new roof, you start researching various roofing options and that’s when metal roofing grabs your attention. After doing some research online you learn that metal roofing offers great variety of colors styles and can be made from steel, aluminum, stainless steel, and even copper – the king of metal roofing materials. You learn that metal roofing offers traditional styles such as shingles and metal shakes that resemble ceder shakes, and that there is even metal roofing that looks like natural slate.
Indeed, metal roofing offers great variety of choices and for people who like stricter lines there is also a product called standing seam metal roof. But, the best part of all this metal roofing hype is that metal roofs can last three times longer than conventional asphalt shingle roofs, provided that they were installed by specially trained metal roofing contractors because, your metal roof will only be as good as people who install it.
You learn that metal roofing offers many benefits over asphalt shingle roof. For instance, metal roofs are fire retardant, which would keep your home safer if there was a fire in the forest or neighboring buildings. It keeps your home cool during the summer, which is great because now you can safe money on air conditioning costs as well as do the right thing for the environment; Metal Roofing is fully recyclable at the end of its service life, which by the way, may outlast your home! Since metal roofing can be recycled, there will be no wasted materials going into the landfills, which is always the case with asphalt shingle roofs.
Metal Roofing is considered green building material and it can even earn you LEED credits if it is a new construction and you are building in accordance with green building practices. Green building means that materials used are safe for both humans and environment. It also means that materials will outlast conventional building materials, because green building is all about efficient use of resources.
As the owner of new metal roof, you can now receive $1500.00 in federal tax credits at the end of the year and you can do it twice; one time at the end of 2009, and second time at the end of 2010 provided that you have upgraded your home with energy efficient metal roof.
Metal roof also offers excellent return on the investment, which means that aside from the beautiful curb appeal, metal roof will appraise your home in the range of approximately 90 cents to a dollar spent. Not too bad considering the fact that you will be saving money on air conditioning costs avoiding unnecessary roof repairs and maintenance. Majority of modern metal roofing systems do not require any major maintenance.
Modern Metal roofs such as Standing Seam can be easily upgraded with roof integrated solar roofing panels, which can drastically reduce your electric bill and pay for itself in 7 to 10 years. Not to bad for somebody who plans to stay in their home for a while. Not to mention that there are also solar roofing credits made available by federal and state governments.
In the nutshell, metal roofing is a great investment for somebody who plans to stay in their home for a while, because eventually metal roof will pay for itself. The only drawback is that you can expect to pay more money upfront than you would for an asphalt shingle roof, but over time math will surely work in your favor. You can see the way it works by looking at metal roofing cost overtime. Clearly Metal roofing pros far outweigh the cons, and it is a matter of how long you plan to stay in your home.
This is second part of a series of metal roof installation articles that we will post here in the near future. In part 1 of metal roofing installation guide I discussed the essentials of metal roof installation such as Safety, Tear-off and Preparing a roof deck.
In this part we will go deeper into the actual installation, but before we continue, I will “briefly” talk about things I forgot to mention in the first part of this article series – tools and materials required to install a metal roof.
1) Metal roofing Hand Tools you will need:
A roofing hatchet or a carpenter’s hammer. I prefer a hatchet, but in some cases you do need a claw-hammer of some type to pull out nails. You can also use a flat bar, but it’s not always convenient to have too many bulky things on the roof.
Utility knife. After trying out more than 50 different utility knifes, I came to a conclusion to use the single-use knifes with blades that are long and you just brake off a dull piece of the blade and the next on is sharp. You can buy them at a Dollar Tree – 3 knifes for $1. They are light and I don’t care if I drop or loose one.
Carpenter’s pencil and/or Sharpie permanent marker. You can buy these at Home Depot or Lowe’s
Sheet Metal Snips – I prefer the the 3″ snips (with yellow handles) from Sears – they last the longest, cut easily while staying sharp, cost only $16.99 and and (very important for me) have sharp, pointy tips that make the cut very clean, without ripping the metal.
Tape measure. There are many and many people have their own preference. For me, I find the best tape measure is the one from Lowe’s, that costs $6.99. It’s green and has a black release button. I like it so much because when you pull out the tape, does not retract back, but stays until you press the release button. All other tape measures work in the opposite manner, which I find VERY annoying.
A tool belt. Again, just as with tape measures and many other tools, there are so many choices, but a good belt can make your roof installation as pleasureful as one can be, while a crappy tool belt will make your life hell, and you will hate any king of construction work for the rest of your life . My personal preference is the $30 from home depot. It is made of blue heavy duty synthetic cloth. It has a metal ring (hammer / snips holder) on each side, large pockets, a special place to put a bulky tape measure, and is otherwise rate small, compared to other full size tool belts. It is also light and somewhat comfortable to wear on the roof. You can also take it apart – eg. remove one of the pockets which will make the tool belt only “half the size”. The Velcro belt also makes it easy to put on.
Sheet metal hand seamer / folder. This tool is invaluable for any metal roofing work. In fact, when I just started installing metal roofs, hand seamer, along with the above tools where the only tools I had and needed to install a metal roof. Everything else is just for convenience / speed. With the hand seamer / folder, You can make such complex flashing pieces as chimney collar, side-wall, etc. You will find it very useful and essential to the installation of the metal roof.
Above tools are the bare essentials which will allow you to install any metal roof, without much hassle.
1.1) Power tools:
Drill/Driver: Aside from these, you will need a cordless drill. I recommend an impact driver with Lithium Ion batteries, and all my power tools are made by Hitachi. I used to work with Craftsman and still own them, but they are heavy, loose power fast, and break, while Hitachi ones are light, strong, have log battery life and do NOT break!
Wood cutting: For minor wood repairs, a cordless sawzall by Hitachi will be more than adequate. Actually, I rarely bring my corded tools to job site any more
2) Material other than metal roofing.
To properly install a metal roof you will need a properly attached underlayment and properly sealed roof penetrations. After trying out many products, I have my favorites, which I exclusively use now on all our jobs:
Underlayment: We use GAF DeckArmor breathable underlayment on every one of our roofs. Why? Because it is the best we found at reasonable price (there is a similar product, but it costs 4 times more and is not any better in actual performance). DeckArmor is durable, slip resistant, water tight, light-weight and comes in 4′6″ wide rolls which makes installation much faster, compared to 3″ rolls.
DeckArmor prevents most moisture problems associated with the synthetic underlayments, where the moisture is trapped between underlayment and roof deck, and makes the wood rot, causes mold, mildew and problems for roofing contractors using them.
Deck Armor works like human skin, by letting vapor molecules pass through, while keeps water out. This way any moisture from the inside escapes and runs down, between the underlayment and the roofing material, instead of being trapped inside.
You can easily walk on it after securely attaching it to the roof deck, and you can leave it exposed up-to 6 months and not worry about leaks.
Nails: We use 1 1/2″ plastic cap nails to attach the underlayment to the roof deck. They are rust-proof, light and do not damage the underlayment, unlike regular roofing nails. You can buy a large bucket of these nails at Home Depot or Lowe’s, but I recommend not to get 1 inch nails which above stores usually stock. Get longer ones, and it will be mych easier to work with them.
Sealant / Caulking: Each roofer has his/her own preference when it comes to sealants, and my love goes to Solar Seal 900. I found it to be the best caulking the is water tight, cures fast, has very strong adhesion, is rather inexpensive and comes in a variety of colors.
if we see that your roof qualifies, we will tell you about this promotion even if you do not know about it!
