What Size Drip Edge for Roof: Choosing the Right Drip Edge Dimensions

The right drip edge size protects roof edges, prevents water damage, and ensures code compliance. This guide explains standard drip edge sizes, how to measure, selection tips for different roof types, and installation best practices to help homeowners and contractors choose the most suitable drip edge for a roof. Proper sizing and placement reduce rot, improve drainage, and extend roof lifespan.

Drip Edge Type	Common Sizes	Best For
Type A (Closure)	1″, 1.5″	Gable Ends, Wind Protection
Type B (Eave)	2″, 2.5″	Standard Eaves
Type C (Combination)	1.5″, 2″, 3″	Rakes And Eaves, Wide Overhangs

Why Drip Edge Size Matters

Drip edge size affects water diversion, flashing overlap, shingle alignment, and wind resistance. Choosing the wrong size can allow water to run behind fascia or compromise shingle placement. Selecting the correct projection and leg length ensures shingles shed water into the gutter and protects roof sheathing.

Standard Drip Edge Sizes And Profiles

Most drip edge is measured by two legs: the horizontal projection that sits under shingles and the vertical face that covers the fascia. Common horizontal projections are 1″, 1.5″, 2″, and 3″, with vertical legs typically ranging from 1″ to 2.5″.

Profiles vary by manufacturer and are often labeled Type A, B, C, or D; Type B (eave) and Type C (rake) are widely used for residential roofing.

How To Measure For The Right Drip Edge

Measure roof eave overhang, fascia height, and gutter placement before ordering. If shingles extend close to the fascia, a smaller projection (1″–1.5″) may suffice. For deep overhangs or to cover wide fascia, choose a 2″–3″ projection.

Also measure the rake edge slope and account for any soffit or ventilation overhang. Use these measurements to confirm the vertical leg covers the fascia by at least 1″.

Choosing Drip Edge By Roof Type And Materials

For asphalt shingles, a 1″–2″ horizontal projection with a vertical leg of 1″–2″ is common. Metal roofs often require custom-shaped edge flashing for compatibility. Tile roofs frequently use wider drip edges or specialized tile edge systems to prevent water backing under tiles.

Steep-slope roofs can use narrower projections if gutters are closely positioned; low-slope roofs may benefit from larger projections and integrated gutters to prevent overflow.

Building Codes, Manufacturer Requirements, And Best Practices

Many U.S. codes and shingle manufacturers require a drip edge at eaves and rakes. The International Residential Code (IRC) specifies drip edge use in some sections; local jurisdictions may adopt variations. Always check local code and manufacturer installation instructions to ensure compliance and maintain warranty coverage.

Installation Tips Related To Size

At eaves, install drip edge under the underlayment and over the fascia so the horizontal leg sits beneath shingles. At rakes, place drip edge over the underlayment and under the shingles. These placement rules help ensure water drains away from the deck. Proper overlap—about 1″—and fastener spacing every 8–10 inches are recommended for secure installation.

Handling Corners And Transitions

For outside corners, miter or use preformed corner pieces sized to match the drip edge. At inside corners and valley intersections, lap pieces with a minimum 2″ overlap and seal with compatible roofing sealant. Cut and seat edges to avoid gaps that could direct water behind the flashings.

Materials And Durability Considerations

Drip edge comes in galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, and stainless steel. Galvanized steel (G90) is common and cost-effective; aluminum resists rust and suits coastal climates; copper offers longevity and aesthetics but at higher cost. Choose material thickness and finish that match roof lifespan expectations and local exposure.

Cost Estimates And Budgeting

Prices vary by material, size, and finish. Standard galvanized drip edge typically costs less per linear foot than aluminum or copper. Expect material-only costs from about $0.60 to $3.50 per linear foot for common residential sizes; installed pricing varies with labor, roof complexity, and region. Budget for overlap, fasteners, sealant, and labor when estimating total cost.

Common Mistakes When Selecting Drip Edge Size

• Choosing Too Small A Projection: Water can run behind the fascia if the horizontal leg is too short.
• Ignoring Fascia Height: A vertical leg that’s too short won’t protect the fascia adequately.
• Overlooking Manufacturer Specs: Noncompliant dimensions can void shingle warranties.
• Using Incorrect Placement: Installing eave and rake pieces interchangeably can reduce effectiveness.

Maintenance And Replacement Guidelines

Inspect drip edge during routine roof checks and after major storms. Look for rust, loose fasteners, bent sections, or gaps. Replace damaged sections promptly to prevent water intrusion and rot. Replacement sizing should match existing dimensions or upgraded sizes based on current fascia and gutter configuration.

Choosing A Professional Versus DIY

Installing drip edge is often a straightforward roofing task but requires accurate measurement and safe roof access. For complicated rooflines, steep slopes, or when matching specialized materials, hiring a licensed roofer ensures correct sizing and compliance. Professional installation helps preserve warranties and ensures flashing integrates properly with other roofing systems.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is The Most Common Drip Edge Size? For residential shingle roofs, 1″–2″ horizontal projections with 1″–1.5″ vertical legs are most common.

Can Drip Edge Be Too Big? Yes. Excessively large projections can interfere with gutters or look disproportionate; sizing should fit fascia and gutter placement.

Does Drip Edge Go Over Or Under Underlayment? At eaves, the drip edge horizontal leg should go under the underlayment; at rakes, the drip edge typically goes over the underlayment. Follow manufacturer and code guidance.

Is Drip Edge Required? Many codes and shingle manufacturers require drip edge at eaves and rakes; local requirements vary, so verify with local building officials.